Post Archive Faction (PAF), Deconstructive Campaigns from Korea
Based in Korea, Post Archive Faction(PAF) is steadily spreading their deconstructive and futuristic fashion campaigns throughout the world. Instead of using the word ‘season’ they chose to use the word ‘archive’ or ‘campaign’ and fabricate new structural formula through evolving archives. They aim to study structural evolution of the garments and those can be extracted from various genres of art such as architecture, multimedia art and even from nature. By checking their archives from 1.0 to 4.0, we can read off that they have conducted raw and experimental fashion designs. From there pieces, we can find out deconstruction details and reinterpretation of techwear silhouettes with their own avant-garde vibes.
Post Archive Faction approaches their design by classifying their archive into three positions.
These classified models give opportunity to explore from the most basic to the most radical elements of their design, which are disrupt and evolve. From Right models, we can see basic, essential designs and silhouettes of garments. Clothes that are inseparable from our life and are needed all the time. And Center model refers to bridging design. Asymmetric, color and fabric differences, experimental structures and placements are found on the Center models. Left models are radical. Raw and iconoclastic designs of the Left models can only be found on PAF.
Before PAF being PAF, they were known as Resistance for its brand’s name. By changing their name into Post Archive Faction, they changed their design moto and archive 1.0 was their first collection as PAF which was held in 2018. For archive 1.0, collective of PAF was inspired by the fundamental concept of prototype and shot their lookbook with concept of fake runway.
Images of 1.0 lookbook look just like models walking at the runway of the fashion show. We can see diverse items there from down jacket to trench coat and inner pieces with all those design details of buckles, straps and tightening techniques. Futuristic and deconstructive silhouettes show their visions of the brand and designs they aim.
From archive 2.0, first of all, there are many usage of modern industrial colors. From soft sand beige tone to total black, it shows gradation of industrial colors. Details of each pieces explain postmodernism design. Both words of Modern and Deconstruction explains this collection efficiently.
With calm and not strong colors, they still make those looks eye catching. Cuts, pleats and attachments provide silhouettes which were never find before in the fashion world.
Until archive 3.0, PAF mostly focused on designs with the ideas of futuristic and deconstructive silhouettes. And by the time of archive 3.0, they still go with these ideas but chose to show more techniques of design processes.
We can find out those fabrics cut raw without any rules and cleaved freely. Also those imbalance, imperfect and deformed silhouettes of these looks are representing humankind being physically or psychologically ill.
The concept of deconstruction remains in archive 3.1 as well, showing their own exclusive and unique patterns. Silhouettes and fits of 3.1 are more wearable and free. White, grey to black, for this season achromatic colors are used on garments. It helps to focus on details and techniques and also gives whole unified mood of the collection.
Asymmetry panelled technical jacket with cleaved lines on chest and sleeve, technical pants with constant varifold pleats details will definitely catch all the fashionistas around the world.
Archive 4.0 is most recent collection they’ve designed. PAF have brought new deconstructive details such as diagonal line pattern, wavy cleaved line and perforations reminding petals. Color scheme of this collection is pretty simple but they stand out for sure.
For archive 4.0, PAF have chosen low saturation colors, mostly achromatic colors, and added bright yellow and neon colors to it. This color way makes those strong colors to blend in well to a specific look. Up to now, from this collection as well, we can see PAF’s experimental spirit through the garments.
Korea doesn’t have long history of fashion designer brands like those European countries. Nowadays there are many talented designers and unique contemporary brands are popping out to the fashion scene spreading new and positive influences toward the world. It is actually worn by many celebrities around the world. From pieces of Post Archive Faction, we can associate the earliest designs of Martin Margiela’s designs (but a bit more modern). We can feel industrial vibes and also city vibes at the same time from PAF’s designs. We can actually find out the mood of busy city, which could represent the atmosphere of Seoul city. Post Archive Faction is a brand which contains the mood of current Korean cultures but not showing into its surface, just connoting.
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