The designer who tells stories of innocence and sincerity with a great personal triumph under the arm.
Simon Porte Jacquemus. 1990. South of France. A childhood surrounded by country landscape, sun, nature and that is now reflected in its collections already uploaded to the best and most prestigious fashion catwalks. It is in this idyllic childhood when his career begins designing her first garment: a curtain skirt for her mother.
A self-taught young man, who travels to Paris to study at a fashion school, a story that seems like a movie. The big shock of the loss of a mother at an early age will be responsible for creating a turning point of a reality that now has us stunned. Jacquemus. Maternal last name and today name that has tasted success since 2009.
A sweet taste that often turns sour. Simon Porte Jacquemus becomes one of the most youthful talents to step on Paris fashion week, giving him recognition within the excessive French fashion industry, some would say. Despite this, he remains criticised, receiving a diversity of comments that define him as being too amateurish, or premature. Some even dare to talk about his designs and suggest that these are a replica of big brands and houses. Something that defines him as less serious, without realising that the truth lies within his own words, that “I’m not that serious”.
The absolute truth is improbable, but what some defend in one way, others, and I include myself, we could define it as fresh. The Jacquemus style is distinguished by its innocence. The base is in the sun, in daylight, in childhood and family, in the sensation of the feet touching fresh earth. The emotion of touching skin to skin, naturally. It is the landscape of southern France and the fruit aromas. “The things I like are small” and the simplest. Jacquemus is purity and sincerity.
A very innovative minimalist style stands out from its collections, silhouettes that can adapt very well to the moment and current trends, in turn differentiating themselves. In fact, thanks to differentiation. And some very personal designs that today are, and I dare to say, icons, not only of the brand but of the generation for which they are created.
A highlight above all: le chapeau Bomba, a maxi Pamela who has traveled from nudes on the beach to weddings that have become a headline. Not for the wedding but for the complement. The mini Chiquito, the croco Chiquito, the Big Chiquito, a true obsession. An explosion of freshness and new concepts. High heels of pure fantasy with vertigo structures, glitters and fringes, authentic jewels and a must have.
Simon Porte Jacquemus can taste the artistic success because he has maximized the sentimental value at every step he goes. Because each image, each garment, or staging, forces you to imagine a child running barefoot, living by day and sleeping at night. Every single detail carries an explosion of meaning. The whole concept Jacquemus goes beyond collections. “When I design, I imagine a scene, a complete story”.
He finds a formula and he squeeze it to the maximum. The key to success has to do with exclusivity, quality and personality. Jacquemus manages to attract attention in a subtle and delicate way but always stepping with great force.
Despite this and although its recognition is increasing, there is still that need to excuse their success. In every corner when trying to read about him, his brand, his career appears billing figures that try to explain why it rises to the top, why it is still present. The success is not, or at least not only, in the business behind it and the profits, because success it is a form of personal triumph. Success is being able to explain your roots and make people fall in love of them; success is being able to honor your mother; success is being able to tell a story without intermediaries or filters, raw and natural, a story of life.
On its 10th anniversary it makes a great celebration by presenting the SS2020 collection “Le coup de soleil” among lavender fields of French Provence. What he defines as “my dream”.
I think it is necessary to highlight how thankful he is in one of his Instagram posts: “I don’t want a bigger building, but I want projects with meaning, good practices, meetings, and more sharing”. A brief, forceful speech and where sincerity is its maximum expression. In essence, Simon Porte Jacquemus is the definition of the 80’s lover, fruit, life and poetry lover. The man with the soul of a child who always tells the truth and the person we all really want.
Here “Le Coup de Solei, Spring/Summer 2020”
Photo credits: Courtesy of Jacquemus.com
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